Today marks the close of the official Peace Corps
Week, a time when current and returned volunteers alike are encouraged to
educate others about the countries in which they served and about Peace Corps
itself.
My favorite Peace Corps slogan is this: “It’s the
toughest job you’ll ever love.”
I’ve been stuck on the tough half of that slogan
for a while now. When I try to describe how I’m feeling to friends and family,
the only adjective that comes to mind is tired: I'm tired of being perpetually
dirty, tired of being isolated from fluent English speakers, fellow countrymen
& women, and other followers of my faith, tired of putting myself into the
tiny box that constitutes proper female behavior in Ethiopia, and most of all,
tired of hitting roadblock after roadblock at school.
If it weren’t for a large stubborn streak and a
more-than-healthy dose of pride, the combination of loneliness and discouragement
probably would have sent me home by now. I’m glad I’m still here though, so for
once I’m grateful for my stubbornness and pride. They are the last reasons in
the basket to go, and they keep me from quitting on the days when the other
reasons have already been pulled out and haven’t done the trick.
Being here still and reflecting on my experience so
that I can write about it for this blog, I was able to have (and to recognize) a seemingly
ordinary but actually quite remarkable morning yesterday:
At about 9am, my landlady called me in to her house
for coffee. My neighbors and I all gathered in her living room, some of us with
our crochet projects in hand, to sit, chat, and drink coffee. The topic of
conversation was my town’s first violent crime since I’ve been here: a murder
and a subsequent revenge murder. To find out what had happened, since I can
only pick up fragments from full-speed conversations in the local language, I
called my neighbor’s son, who has great English but is working elsewhere, to
ask him what was going on. He then called his mother to get the story, and
called me back to explain everything. Thanks to him, I was able to join them in
expressing our dismay that such violence had come to our usually peaceful town,
and sympathy for the families involved.
After coffee, I went out to the main road to stock
up for the weekend on various food items. My favorite shop owner greeted me by
name, asked how my work was going, and made sure I got her freshest eggs. At my
bread place the owner knew when he saw me coming to start getting two rolls of
bread ready for me, and at my favorite fruit stand the 10-year-old daughter
manning the stand helped me pick out the biggest bananas. Walking home, children
at three separate houses spotted me, shouted my name and ran over to shake my
hand, beaming up at me. Last, my neighbor’s son accidentally kicked his ball
onto the street, and when I tossed it back to him he very deliberately said,
“thank you,” choosing my language even though he doesn’t think he’s very good
at English. Then, not 10 minutes after settling back into my house, my neighbor
shouted for me to come join them in enjoying some freshly baked bread.
All of this was packed into one morning. On the
surface, it was just me going about my routine: drinking coffee with neighbors,
grocery shopping, and hanging out in our compound’s common area. If this was a
facebook status update though (that is where hash tags are used, isn’t it?
Uh-oh, I may be about to reveal just how out of touch I really am…), you could
safely tag this story with #community support, #generosity, and #friendship.
This is where the love half of that Peace Corps slogan resurfaces. How can I
not love a life that includes children running to shake my hand, neighbors
sharing their bread with me even though they can only afford to make bread on
holidays, and a community that is not in the least bit desensitized to violent
crime in their town?
If I had one critique of that Peace Corps slogan, however,
it would be that Peace Corps is so much more than a job. It’s your entire life,
for 2 ¼ years, for better or for worse, but really for both. You cannot
possibly emerge unchanged, nor can you leave your community untouched. Those
transformations are messy, but they are absolutely worth the struggle.
Bravo, Kristen,
ReplyDeleteYou are being required to lose yourself and go through the needle's eye • as a way of life. Your courage to persist means you will have the strength of this gift always, for it to profit you wherever.